For the spice mix
For the koftas
For the tomato sauce
Warm a heavy-based casserole on a medium heat, then gently toast the cumin and coriander seeds for a few minutes. Tip them into a mortar or spice grinde, add the garlic, cinnamon and half a teaspoon of salt, and grind to a paste. Set aside half of the paste for the tomato sauce, then mix the turmeric and ginger into the remaining paste in the mortar.
Meanwhile, heat the oil for the koftas in the same pan, add the two diced onions, and sweat with a teaspoon of salt for eight to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlicky paste from the mortar and, once the onions are translucent and smelling tantalisingly good, add the lamb and scrape the mix into a bowl.
To make the sauce, put the same pan back on a medium heat, add the butter and onion, and season generously. After eight to 10 minutes, stir in the reserved spice paste and stir-fry for a few minutes. Cut up the tinned tomatoes with scissors or squash them to a pulp, then stir them into the pan with the bay leaves. Stir, then simmer gently over a medium heat for about 15 minutes, until the sauce is thick and glossy.
Meanwhile, mix the dill in to the bowl of onions and mince, and season with a teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Mix thoroughly, then, using your hands, shape into equal-sized, flattish torpedo shapes. You should end up with 12-14 in all.
When you are ready to eat, heat a griddle, barbecue or frying pan on a high heat until smoking. Griddle or fry the koftas for two to three minutes on each side, until just cooked in the middle. Serve astride the tomato sauce with short-grain rice or bulgur wheat, some wilted spinach or chard, and the cacik below.